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Tips for dealing with inter-dog aggression

By Katenna Jones, ScM, ACAAB, CCBC, CDBC, CPDT-KA | January 24, 2019 

Interdog aggression tips for pet sitters and dog walkers

Disclaimer: The following is general information that applies to many dogs in many situations. However, there are exceptions to everything. Each animal is an individual, and each situation is unique. Always err on the side of caution, develop experience, learn from mistakes, continue to educate yourself from quality and qualified resources, and never attempt to modify aggression without the help of a qualified professional.

If a dog doesn’t get along with another dog, there’s something wrong…right? Actually, only 10% of all dogs (including most puppies) are considered dog social and love nearly all other dogs. About 40% are considered dog tolerant and get along with most other dogs. Of the remaining 50% of dogs, 40% are picky and considered dog selective while 10% are considered dog aggressive and dislike nearly all other dogs. So what options does a pet sitter have?

In some cases, pet sitters are “interventions.” Rarely, they have the opportunity to advise against accepting puppies younger than seven weeks. Puppies need mom and siblings until then for maximum development of appropriate dog social skills. Occasionally, pet sitters are able to intervene during the secondary socialization period (aka the fear impact period) at seven to twelve weeks. This is when pet professionals can educate owners on exposing puppies to a variety of experiences, including other dogs, without stress or force. Failure to do so can result in adults who overreact, tend toward fear and aggression, can be permanently socially stunted, and are unable to effectively and safely interact with other dogs.

The modern AVMA standard of care is to ensure puppies receive adequate socialization before being fully vaccinated. Behavioral issues are the #1 cause of death for dogs under 3 years and puppies who receive social contact before 12 weeks are significantly less likely to develop fear or aggression later in life. 

Dealing with dog aggression in the home

Most sitters work with adult dogs, and you’re bound to eventually encounter aggression. One example is aggression within multi-dog homes, the most common of which involves resource guarding, redirected aggression, and simply not liking each other. In the latter case, there is little you can do other than manage it: keep the dogs completely separate when you are there and advise the pet owners to get professional assistance. When dealing with the other behaviors, there are some things that can be done.

Be aware of “hot zones” or areas where fights are more likely to occur during stressful moments. These include doors and entryways, tight spaces such as halls or stairs, beds or resting spots, or near food bowls or cookie jars. Stressful moments include high intensity situations, such as your arrival, preparing for a walk, treat time, crate exit or entry, bath time, medication time, and more. It is not unusual for dogs to become overly agitated and redirect their frustration onto each other. Help diffuse these high intensity situations by keeping distance between dogs, waiting for calm exits from crates, not allowing jostling in hot zones, or walking hyper aroused dogs separately.

Avoid resource guarding by controlling, restricting or eliminating access to high value resources. These resources may include comfy resting spots, favorite chew items, new toys or your affection. Avoid putting high value items right between dogs or allowing access amid high intensity situations. Instead, separate the dogs and give them the space to enjoy them on their own, during calmer moments. Again, this may include your affection.

Most pet sitters provide walks for dogs and, like with many things, preparation is key. Before the walk, talk to your client and also familiarize yourself with the neighborhood to identify where problem areas may be. Note the homes with dogs who lunge at fences and windows, yards with invisible fences, areas where “that one dog” always tends to be loose, and so on.

Dealing with dog aggression in public

When you are out and about on your dog walk, you will likely encounter another dog at some point. They may be leashed and both they and their human appear lovely, or you may be minding your own business only to notice a dog dragging their human who is shouting “He loves other dogs!” Regardless of the other dog or their human, when you are caring for someone else’s pet it is NOT the time to “socialize” or make new friends. If you’re able to just get away, go for it. Sometimes we need to be more proactive. With your palm flat and facing out, firmly and loudly instruct “Stop! Do not let your dog near my dog!” as you move away. Be confident, firm and clear. Some of you are perfectly comfortable with ending the interaction there and going about your walk. Some of you, however, get an icky feeling just thinking about this. Don’t worry! If the other person gives you the opportunity, you can soften the previous blow. Come up with a planned script that concisely provides all necessary information. For example: “I’m sorry—I don’t mean to be rude! This isn’t my dog. I’m his pet sitter and I don’t know how he might respond. It’s my job to ensure that he and all other dogs remain safe, so as a policy I do not allow meetings. I hope you understand. I would do the same if I were caring for your dog.” This might also become a good opportunity to toss a business card, if they like quality pet sitters! Now, you can carry on your walk.

Naturally, this won’t work for all situations. There are off-leash dogs or even the perfect storm where YOUR dog gets away and starts an altercation. It doesn’t matter who the aggressor is, all that matters is how you handle it.

First and foremost, always have plenty of supplies as well as a plan. When (not if) it happens, the best you can do is try everything you can in the hope you find what works for that dog on that day in that moment. In most cases, you will be dealing with arguments, which usually include a lot of vocalizations, open mouths, wet contact, and mouthing but not biting. In most cases, socially fluent dogs can work things out for themselves. Unfortunately, many dogs simply don’t have adequate social skills or the humans don’t have the skills to know when, how or if to intervene. This is when someone can get very seriously hurt—emotionally or physically.

Supplies and suggested progression of action when facing loose dogs:

  • Stay calm. Breathe.
  • Shout single word commands in a loud, firm, deep voice in case the other dog recognizes them. For example: No, go home, stay, etc. Note: this is NOT the same as screaming and panicking, which you should never do.
  • Carry a training pouch filled with doggie trail mix, like liverwurst, boiled hamburger, strong cheese, etc. Fling handfuls so it not only bounces off the dog but also creates a litter of options all over the ground. If the dog responds, repeat as you move your dog to safety. If they ignore your first throw, don’t bother trying again.
  • Spray Direct Stop citronella spray in a figure 8 pattern directly at the oncoming dog as you back away with your dog toward safety.
  • Pop open a large golf umbrella at the oncoming dog and/or use it as a shield for yourself and your dog. Note: this may scare your dog as well.
  • If the dog comes within striking distance use your treat bag, backpack, jacket or other item to place between the dogs. Sometimes throwing this will give them something to focus on while you move to a safer place.
  • Make noise to distract or interrupt, such as clapping, brief/loud/firm shouts (like, “Hey!” or “No!”). But NO SCREAMING!
  • Avoid picking a dog up, as this may trigger the aggression to escalate or result in downward tearing injuries due to jumping bites.

Rarely, there is a dog that blows right through all of your efforts because the drive to get the other dog is so great. In these cases, you will likely have to break up a fight.

Suggested supplies and actions for breaking up a fight:

  • Stay calm. Breathe.
  • Air horns can be aversive enough to interrupt the fight or loud enough to get the attention of neighbors for help. They may, however, also severely scare your dog.
  • Bite sticks may be needed if one dog won’t let go of the other. Learn what makes up a good bite stick and how to use it properly from a reputable source. Do NOT learn during a fight.
  • In cases where one dog is aggressing and the other is attempting to escape, put your focus on the aggressor.
  • In cases when both dogs are mutually aggressing, you need help.
    • Restrict the movement of the aggressor by grabbing hind legs, between foot and heel, and lifting like a wheelbarrow.
    • Carry an extra leash, which you can wrap under the dog’s belly, toward their groin, rather than leashing at the neck.
    • Once a dog is latched on, NEVER pull EITHER dog—this is where most serious injuries occur. Push INTO the victim in an attempt to trigger release.
    • On the count of 3, each person grabs their respective dog by their hind legs between foot and heel, and lifts off the ground like a wheelbarrow.
    • Push your dog into the other dog, in an effort to trigger release.
    • Do NOT restrict movement of just one dog, or you crate leverage for more injury.
    • If you don’t have help, you can only do your best.

Things to remember when breaking up a fight:

  • Don’t panic, scream, yank or otherwise make the situation worse.
  • Don’t put hands anywhere near dog mouths or grabbing neck collars. If you get injured, your income may come to a screeching halt. You may have to cancel clients, may end up losing clients who have to find another provider, or may be seriously injured and unable to work. Your hands are your money makers. Protect them.
  • Don’t attempt to give commands, like “leave it” or “stop!” The dog is a little too distracted to listen. Screaming just adds fuel to the fire.
  • Don’t let the dogs shake, pull, roll.

Getting to safer spaces:

  • Try to move in unpredictable circular or figure-8 patterns so the aggressor can’t anticipate where to attack.
  • Get behind vehicles, bikes, bushes, etc.
  • Move up driveways, into yards, onto porches, inside truck beds, on top of cars, etc.

After the fight:

  • Quickly secure the more aggressive dog (preferably both dogs) quickly with the strong carabiner you always have on leash handle by clipping to a fence, pole, tree, etc.
  • Quickly assess the victim(s). If no one is bleeding profusely or screaming in pain, STOP! Take photos of landmarks, street signs, the dogs, any humans, etc. Otherwise, your dog MAY end up with a long quarantine because vaccination status of the aggressor cannot be confirmed.
  • Next, assess all animals for injuries and seek medical attention if necessary.
  • Inform the owners.

Some pet sitters may go an entire career without incident while others run into frequent issues, but most will land in the middle. My hope is that you now have a few more tools to be confident and safe in providing the best possible pet-sitting services you can. Be safe, be smart, and keep learning!

Additional resources

Some helpful resources include, but are not limited to:

Books

  • “Feeling Outnumbered?” by Patricia McConnell
  • “The Feisty Fido” by Patricia McConnell
  • “Keeping the Peace” by Nicole Wilde
  • “Fight!” by Jean Donaldson
  • “Behavior Adjustment Training” by Grisha Stewart

DVDs:

  • “Dog-Dog Aggression” by Patricia McConnell
  • “Treating Dog Reactivity” by Patricia McConnell
  • “The Reactive Dog” by Sue Sternberg
  • “Dog Aggression” by Sophia Yin

Professional Assistance:

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